Glen Shiel Round
Glen Shiel in a busy place. It's a Munro bagger’s dream; it has Brothers and Sisters and an iconic scramble; rough ground and some smooth fast ridges. The Battle of Glen Shiel in 1719 was the last hand to hand engagement between British and foreign troops on mainland British soil, ending in Jacobite defeat. Broxap improved the 24-hour Munro record from here in 1988 in a whopping 29 Munro and 78 mile run that was not beaten for 30 years. Many mountain folks will have felt the pull of these hills from the deep glen whilst journeying to Skye or Applecross.
I wanted to run a route based on Glen Shiel’s hills. The glen itself runs from near the Cluanie Inn at the east down some 8 miles to Shiel Bridge on the shores of Loch Duich. Running the South Glen Shiel Ridge is a brilliant outing in its own right, and a quick way to link its seven Munros. Many long runs have been done here, but I couldn't find much information on circular rounds of the glen which were more modest than the gargantuan Broxap Round. Thinking about the aesthetics of such a round, I decided to base it loosely on the skyline of Glen Shiel. Including the nine southerly Munros seemed obvious - the South Cluanie Ridge plus rugged Sgurr na Sgine and The Saddle - as did a full traverse of the Five Sisters of Kintail and the three linked Brothers. There are three Munros in the Five Sisters, but the other two peaks seem less well specified. From what I've read Sgurr nan Saighead and Sgurr na Moraich complete the quintet of the most prominent peaks when viewed from Ratagan or Loch Duich. Munro baggers may question my omission of Ciste Dhubh which lies north of Aonach Meadhoin the eastern most Brother. Although it can be glimpsed from near the Cluanie Inn, it isn't really a Glen Shiel hill - being across the watershed and not part of the main skyline - and so I thought the aesthetic line flowed better without it.
Setting out early on a clear April morning there was a chill in the air as I ran along the old road curving east then south from Loch Cluanie to the bridge at Allt Giubhais. Making use of a couple of stiles I then headed directly for Creag a’ Mhaim across rough ground. The short north ridge still had some lingering snow right at the top but, although still firm, it was easy angled. Now I could pick up the pace on the South Cluanie Ridge heading westwards, with the wind. A varied ridge; some narrow and fairly technical sections intersperse with wide rolling ground at times. Looking south to Loch Quoich a tiny plane took off and then landed again at Alltbeithe, its short flight emphasising the scale and silence of the glen. The peaks went by quickly, the temperature warming slowly as the day developed. After Bealach Duibh Leac the ground gets rougher and the hills more spaced. A steep descent from Sgurr a’ Bhac Chaolais leads to a choice of routes up Sgurr na Sgine’s steep eastern flanks. Having previously followed an old wall south southwest I decided this time to take a more direct line. Steep grassy scrambling led to some unstable flakes on a gully wall, but improved when I stepped back right onto the main face. By the Bealach Coire Mhalagain I was low on water and filled up from streams on the ascent of The Saddle.
The Forcan Ridge is the most technical section of the round and was really enjoyable in the now warm sun. A few sheltered snow patches clung on high up but the rock was dry and grippy. Descending around Meallan Odhar to Bealach na Craoibhe I was thirsty again but as I then ascended the Graham top of Biod an Fhithich I felt strong. I had considered several options of descent from The Saddle while planning the route. The long NNW ridge of The Saddle via Spidean Dhomhuill Bhric and Sgurr a’ Gharg Gharaidh promised to be wild and rough, but also posed the question of whether to include the neighbouring Corbett Sgurr Mhic Bharraich, and added more distance. Alternatively, inclusion of the Forcan Ridge seemed ideal, although beyond this obvious options would include descending the stalkers track to the walkers car park at Mhalagain followed by a fairly long stretch along the road, or instead the Allt a’ Choire Chaoil path could be taken after the Forcan Ridge to descend north to Shiel Bridge. I felt however, that the undulating A’ Mhuing ridge of Biod an Fhithich was fitting, and indeed this did prove so as I followed a tiny trod along the crest of the ridge, looking directly down at the Glen Shiel road far below. Lower down the ridge became less well-defined and I perhaps tried to leave it too soon, enticed by the prospect of water lower down the slope. After negotiating some crags and heather tussocks I eventually got back on the track and descended to the campsite and Shiel Bridge.
A few kilometres on the road took me round the corner to the village of Allt a’ Chruinn where I ascended the path up the river of the same name. This part was really hot, being low down, out of the wind and in the sun. I waited too long to get to a good stream, but then downed a litre as fast as the cold water would allow. Filling both soft flasks I took another gel and left the path for the steep direct climb up the ridge to Sgurr na Moraich. This climb was pretty tough but soon enough I was on top and looking out to the huge bulk of Beinn Fhada across Glen Lichd. Following a faint path around hummocks I saw a few small pools which bubbled with the activity of frogs.
Skirting the impressive cliffs east of the ridge I paused to take in the view from Sgurr nan Saighead’s summit. There was still a long way to go but the bulk of the ascent was behind me. The steep pull up Sgurr Fhuaran finishes abruptly, and on the descent of Sgurr na Carnach I was again preoccupied with trying to find water. The big summit cairn of Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe reached, there is a steady descent before a technical rise to Sgurr nan Spainteach - the peak over which retreating Spaniards fled following their defeat far below in 1719.
From Bealach an Lapan the ground gets a bit smoother, and Saileag was reached pretty quickly. The middle Brother - Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dheirg - still had a snowy cap and the final rocky ridge had a few enjoyable leaps between boulders. After a descent to the col partly on soft snow, I climbed finally to Aonach Meadhoin, only to realise that there were still a few small ascents left. Sgurr an Fhuarail was cause for complaint from my legs, but the final climb to Point 854m was - although picturesque - too small to cause any problems. Only when descending the south edge of shallow Coire nan Each did the Cluanie Inn and the view east come fully into view. A quick direct grassy trod took me back to the glen and I popped over the road to finish at the front door of the Cluanie Inn in the afternoon sun.
Details
21/4/21
56km with approx 5500m ascent
8h47m14s
Split Times:
